Exploring New Granite Lines on Mt. Tom Taylor
This summer Mikayla and I returned to one of Vancouver Island’s true granite meccas, Mt. Tom Taylor, for a trip that left us inspired, hungry (literally), and eager to go back for more.
From our camp in the alpine basin, we watched the sun set in fiery tones over Tofino and the winding Bedwell River valley, with the last light reflecting across the glacier-draped ridges of Strathcona Park. Between swims in the alpine lakes and evenings spent under clear skies, we managed to add two new routes to Mt. Tom Taylor’s already impressive collection of alpine climbs.
Highlights of the Trip
Epic sunsets over Tofino and the Bedwell River
Granite perfection: bomber cracks, chicken heads, and endless splitter systems
Wild alpine setting: long routes in a remote corner of Strathcona Park
Two new routes added to Tom Taylor’s growing collection
Route 1: North Ridge Variation (North Face Approach)
Our first new line tackles an alternate route on the north face of Mt. Tom Taylor, beginning from the glacier.
Terrain: 4th/5th class with 5 pitches ranging from 5.5 to 5.8
Start: At the lowest point of the north ridge, accessed by negotiating off the glacier to a rock shelf
Climbing: Three fun pitches up a granite buttress lead to the upper snow shelf, then blocky terrain continues to the west summit
This variation offers an adventurous and moderate alpine experience, perfect for those wanting a big day with glacier travel and enjoyable climbing in a wild setting.
Route 2: Alternate Start to Indian Summer
Pitch 1 (5.8): Begin 4m right of Indian Summer, climbing steep slab on cracks and chicken heads to a large horizontal break.
Pitch 2 (5.11a, crux): A steep and wide crack with face moves leads to a big ledge, then up a chicken-head slab into a wide chimney.
Pitch 3 (5.7): Follow a wide arching crack to rejoin the Indian Summer line at the base of the best crack systems on the wall.
Pitch 4 (5.9): Climb iconic steep parallel splitter cracks to a generous ledge.
Pitch 5: Finish with a laybacking corner and wide cracks trending right, topping out on a minor summit of Mt. Tom Taylor.
This variation adds spice and variety to an already legendary climb, linking into the upper pitches of Indian Summer for a world-class alpine granite experience.
Reflections
Between the climbing, the swimming holes, and the magic of being tucked away in such a remote alpine basin, this trip was everything we love about Vancouver Island climbing. The granite on Mt. Tom Taylor is some of the best we’ve touched on the island, and linking long alpine pitches in such a wild setting is something special.
We left hungry for more (in every sense of the word) and can’t wait to return to continue exploring this incredible mountain.
